Date of visit: June 3, 2022
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Our history with Cascina Fontana
We were first introduced to the amazing wines of Cascina Fontana this past September while having dinner at Vinoteca Centro Storico in Serralunga d’Alba. We’d asked Alessio for a Barolo recommendation, and without hesitation he suggested we try one of Cascina Fontana’s. He brought us a bottle of their 2016 Barolo, and it was outstanding. 15 or 20 minutes later, to our surprise, Mario Fontana sat down at the table next to us, and the rest is history.
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Our June 2022 visit to Cascina Fontana
Cascina Fontana, was the first producer we visited during our trip to Piemonte last month. When we arrived, we were enthusiastically greeted by Tony, the friendliest, most playful, goofy cat in all of Perno, who was enjoying his time in the sun just outside the door to the cellar and tasting room. As much as we loved spending time with Tony, we were anxious to taste Mario’s wines. We left Tony outside, and followed Mario into the tasting room. We began with a very special Dolcetto, his 2021 Dolcetto d’Alba “Triple A”.
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Our tasting notes
2021 Dolcetto d’Alba Triple A When Mario placed this Dolcetto on the table, we knew something was different. “Mario, we’ve never seen this label on your Dolcetto before, did you change it?” Mario explained that beginning with the 2021 vintage he now produces 2 different Dolcetto, his classic Dolcetto d’Alba which we’ve enjoyed in the past, and his new Dolcetto d’Alba Triple A. Triple A, is an organization which stands for Agricoltori, Artigiani, Artisti, meaning farmers, artisans, artists. In order for a wine to display Triple A on its label, it must adhere to clearly defined practices, which essentially are focused on high quality wine production and minimal intervention. Other producers who produce Triple A wines include Occhipinti, Emidio Pepe, Comando G, Marcel Lapierre, amongst others. For a detailed look at how this movement began, and the exact requirements a wine must meet to be considered a Triple A wine, click here.
The first Triple A wine we tasted was during our September 2021 visit to Cascina Fontana. It was 2020 Vino Rosso. It was delicious, and unlike any other 100% Nebbiolo based wine we’ve ever had. To see our tasting notes on that wine, click here.
Just like the 2020 Vino Rosso Triple A, the 2021 Dolcetto d’Alba Triple A has a fun and colorful label, as well as a wax seal, both of which initially caught our attention, as Cascina Fontana’s other wines have a more classic label and don’t utilize a wax seal. The wax seal helps preserve freshness, and serves as an extra layer of protection given that neither wine have any added sulfites. As a result of this, neither wine is exported to the United States, as generally these wines don’t travel well. However, should find yourself in Italy, don’t miss the opportunity to try both, they’re incredible wines, and very different from any other 100% Dolcetto or 100% Nebbiolo based wine we’ve had in the past.
The 2021 Dolcetto d’Alba Triple A was aged exclusively in stainless steel, bottled in February, and of course, followed all the requirements needed to be named a Triple A wine. On the nose there are gorgeous dark fruit aromas of prunes, plums, and crushed blackberries, all of which carry directly over to the palate. Fruit forward and juicy, this wine is so delicious, and easy to drink, but by no means a simple wine. It’s a good thing Mario didn’t leave us alone with the bottle, or we could see ourselves finishing it VERY quickly. A beautiful and unique expression of Dolcetto.
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2021 Barbera d’Alba (from barrel): A portion of Cascina Fontana’s Barbera is aged in cement and a portion in French oak, both for 12 months. Once aging is complete, the 2 parts are then blended to create the final assemblage. Aromas of crushed cherries, roses, raspberries, and some black pepper. The palate delivers soaring acidity, alongside super fine tannins and flavors of raspberries. Some effervescence on the finish, likely because it was tasted from the barrel in a very early stage of its life. This Barbera is already showing great.
2021 Langhe Nebbiolo (from barrel): Like the Barbera we tried previously, a portion of this wine is aged in oak and a portion in cement, and then the 2 parts are blended to create the final assemblage. However, for the Langhe Nebbiolo, Mario uses Slavonian oak rather than French oak. The nose is fruity and juicy, so young, and already so beautiful. Beautiful aromas of roses lead the way followed by tar, crushed cherries, raspberries, herbs, and some licorice. The palate delivers flavors of juicy fresh picked cherries, with a persistent finish. Mario said 2021 looks like it will be a very classic vintage for Nebbiolo. Never did we imagine Nebbiolo this young, from barrel, could already be this enjoyable. We’re very much looking forward to this wine being bottled.
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2021 Barolo del Comune di Castiglione Falletto (from barrel): Enticing classic Nebbiolo aromas of tar and roses, along with juicy crushed cherries, licorice, some herbs, a hint of anise, and a pleasant earthiness. Tannins are already shockingly fine and silky, which is hard for us to wrap our head around given that this is a 2021 Barolo tasted from barrel. There is no doubt this will be a very beautiful Barolo. Truly incredible. This wine has a very promising future.
2018 Barolo: 70-75% of the fruit for this wine came from Castiglione Falletto, and the remaining 25-30% from La Morra. Mario made the decision for this vintage to not produce the Barolo del Comune di Castiglione Falletto, and instead use the fruit that would have gone into that bottling for his classic Barolo, as he felt it would give the classic Barolo more structure. The result is a wine nothing short of spectacular. Juicy raspberries lead the way on the nose, accented by tar, licorice, wet asphalt just after rainfall, along with some anise and balsamic. The palate is very direct, approachable, and fresh, filled with juicy cherry sensations and silky tannins. Exceptional! Delicious, and although very approachable and enjoyable today, will continue to gain complexity with additional time spent in bottle. A wine for today, and also a wine to put away and enjoy in the future as well.
Thank you
Thank you, Luisa and Mario, for your hospitality, generosity, and for sharing your amazing wines with us once again. We absolutely loved all of your wines, enjoyed learning more about them, the history of Cascina Fontana, and what makes your wines so special. We look forward to visiting you again in the very near future. Grazie mille! A presto!
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