Date of visit: October 20, 2022
About the Producer & Our Visit to Ferdinando Principiano
Ferdinando Principiano is quietly turning out some of the greatest wines in all of Langhe from his humble hillside estate in Monforte d’Alba. His wines and methods are unlike any other winemaker we’ve encountered, and in our opinion he’s doing all of the right things. Nicolò, who works for Ferdinando, had generously agreed to show us around and share their incredible wines with us that day. He poured us each a glass of 2017 Alta Langa “Leonardo”, and explained to us the estate’s history, current lineup of wines, and their work in the vineyards and cellar.
Ferdinando Principiano began running his family’s winemaking estate in 1993 after graduating from enological school, and finishing internships at two legendary winemaking estates; Giacomo Conterno and Roberto Voerzio. Ferdinando is the third generation winemaker in his family, his grandfather first planted vines in 1934 in Ravera di Monforte, and some of those vines are still alive and well today. In 1946, his grandfather planted additional vines in the Boscareto MGA, just beneath Giacomo Conterno’s famous Cascina Francia vineyard, and those holdings were expanded in the 1990s.
Most if not all of Ferdinando’s practices are organic, and some are biodynamic. Ferdinando is a firm believer in limiting the use of chemicals as much as possible in the vineyards and cellar. In the vineyards the only treatments used are minuscule amounts of copper and sulfur, and only when absolutely necessary. He’s a big believer in biodiversity, which is something that Langhe and many other wine regions are struggling with today, as forests are being eradicated to make room for more profitable vineyards. To help combat this Ferdinando has purchased forests next to his vineyards, which he doesn’t plan to develop. Protecting these forests increases biodiversity and helps shield vineyards from harsh weather conditions, which results in healthier vines and better wine. In addition to this, it’s also just the right thing to do. Purchasing nearby forests and leaving them undeveloped is a rare and expensive undertaking for a winemaker. Only a few other winemakers who’ve done this come to mind; Cappellano and Roagna, in our opinion, two of the greatest winemaking estates in Langhe and the world. Ferdinando’s efforts to increase biodiversity don’t stop there, he’s also created a pond at the bottom of his Boscareto vineyard, and across from the pond beehives, which has created a habitat for additional wildlife, and biodiversity. Listening to Nicolò tell us about this was somewhat reminiscent of the efforts employed by the legendary Gianfranco Soldera at his Case Basse estate. He too installed a pond and beehives, and purchased nearby forests, all to help preserve, and encourage biodiversity which he believed to be extremely important in the creation of great wine, and important in protecting the environment of the world which we live in. Ferdinando’s extensive environmental efforts are commendable and impressive.
After hearing about Ferdinado’s work in the vineyards, it came as no surprise to learn that his cellar practices are quite hands off. Fermentation is always spontaneous, sulfur is only added in minuscule quantities, and is only added after malolactic fermentation has been completed. Ferdinando is also a big fan of whole-cluster fermentation which he uses on many of his wines. A practice which requires stems to be perfectly ripe, and grapes to be crushed delicately with care, which is why some of Ferdinando’s wines are crushed by foot, a laborious practice, and like whole cluster fermentation, a somewhat rare one.
Tasting Notes
2017 Alta Langa “Leonardo”: Made from approximately 80% Pinot Noir, and the remainder Chardonnay. Nicolò explained that the blend for the 2017 vintage is a bit different from previous years. Typically it’s 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, but severe hail destroyed many of the grapes in 2017 which required the blend to be altered. Grapes were planted in 2011 at an astonishing 700 meters above sea level in Serravalle Langhe in limestone soils. The vineyard is 1.4 hectares in size. Here grapes mature slowly, and can produce wines which have excellent acidity. Harvest took place mid September. Vinified in stainless steel with spontaneous fermentation, not even Pied de Cuve is added. The wine is vinified using a method known as “Solo Uva”; no sugar is added during the second fermentation in bottle, instead 10% of the must of the same vintage is saved and then added. The wine spent 30 months on its lees, and was disgorged 1 year ago. 5,000-6,000 bottles were produced. Interestingly, Nicolò explained that because of the wine’s onion skin like appearance it was denied DOCG status. But does that make it any less of a wine? After taking a sip, the answer was obvious, certainly not. The nose is fruity and floral filled with aromas of orange, lemon, and grapefruit pith. The palate is filled with flavors of tart green apple and grapefruit, with soaring acidity, and densely packed, persistent perlage. Bone dry, very clean, fresh, and direct. A very pure expression of the grapes and terroir. An outstanding way to kick off the tasting.
2020 Langhe Bianco: Made from 100% Timorasso, grown at 750 meters above sea level in Serravalle Langhe. The vineyard is 1.4 hectares in size. Vines are fairly young (12 years old). Fermentation takes place in stainless steel, 30-40% is aged in 1,500 liter botti prior to additional time being spent in bottle. At the time of tasting, the wine had spent just over one year in bottle. Ferdinando has been producing this wine since 2014, though production was quite small during the initial vintage, and in 2015 was increased. Today the estate produces approximately 4,000-6,000 bottles per year. The alcohol level, like all of Principiano’s wines, was shockingly low, at just 12%. Aromas of green herbs, citrus, honeysuckle, and white flowers. The palate delivers flavors of fresh cut apples, lemon and grapefruit pith, with a soft, velvety mouthfeel, vibrant acidity, impeccable balance, and an extremely persistent finish. Very fresh, pure, and clean. Wow, what a wine!
“Dosset” Vino Rosso NV: Ferdinando Principiano produces two Dolcettos, one of which goes by the name “Dosset”, and is bottled as a non vintage vino rosso made from 100% Dolcetto grapes. The name “Dosset”, means “Dolcetto” in Piedmontese dialect. Dosset is produced from Principiano’s younger Dolcetto vines, while his Dolcetto d’Alba bottling is made from older vines. The grapes for this wine are harvested earlier, fermentation and maturation are shorter, and the results yield a wine which is meant to be very approachable and suitable for everyday consumption. Alcohol on this wine tends to be considerably lower than that of his Dolcetto d’Alba (the bottle we tasted was just 11%). An extremely expressive fruit forward nose filled with aromas of cooked strawberries, crushed black fruits, plums, and pomegranates, all of which carries over to the the palate, along with flavors of raspberries. Juicy, fresh, and very clean, with beautifully integrated tannins, and a silky smooth mouthfeel. The example we tasted was from the 2021 vintage, and was extremely enjoyable.
2021 Langhe Freisa: Clocking in at just 12.5% alcohol, this Freisa is made from vines some of which are 30 years old and some 10 years old, grown at 500 meters above sea level in Principiano’s Montagliato vineyard in Monforte d’Alba. The wine aged for 6 months in large botti, was bottled in July, and then spent additional time in bottle prior to release. Production is very small, roughly 2,500 bottles per year. Pronounced aromas of raspberries, strawberries, and licorice. The palate delivers flavors of crushed red fruits and hints of beeswax, alongside juicy acidity and rustic, lingering tannins.
2021 Barbera d’Alba: We can’t remember the last time we saw a new vintage Barbera d’Alba which was just 13% alcohol, and frankly we don’t know how Ferdinando does it. At the moment, winemakers throughout Langhe are struggling to keep alcohol levels for this delicious grape variety in check, as recent vintages have climbed to levels as high as 15.5% or even 16% alcohol. This coupled with the fact that this grape variety is notoriously disease prone, is sadly causing many winemakers to rip up their Barbera vines and replace them with more resilient and profitable grape varieties like Nebbiolo. It’s inspiring to see that some winemakers like Ferdinando have found a way to keep one of our all time favorite grape varieties alive and well. This gorgeous example comes from vines which are 10-20 years old. After the fruit has been crushed and fermented, 10-20% is aged in large botti, and the rest in stainless steel. Bottled in July. Pronounced, juicy, fruity aromas of plums, crushed red and black berries, as well as wet stone. The palate is filled with delicious juicy flavors of crushed cherries, cranberries, and some red currants, with vibrant, bright acidity. A beautiful expression of the grape.
*It’s worth noting that in addition to this Barbera d’Alba, Ferdinando also produces another Barbera, known as “Barbera d’Alba Laura”. The “Laura” bottling is made from 100 year old vines, production is enough to fill just one barrel, and produce a minuscule 500 bottles per year. This wine is not exported, and because of how small production is we didn’t taste the wine that day. However, we did bring a bottle home with us, which Nicolò recommended we wait a few years before drinking. He was hesitant to say for how long, but after pressing him a bit for an answer, we agreed to wait 5-10 years before opening. We look forward to trying this wine very much, seeing how beautiful the traditional Barbera d’Alba bottling was showing that day.
2021 Langhe Nebbiolo: 20-30% aged in oak and the remainder in stainless steel. Pronounced aromas of fresh crushed raspberries, strawberries, and roses, followed by hints of tar and licorice. The palate is filled with flavors of crushed red berries, cherry skins, resin, leather, and cranberries, with silky smooth, ultra fine, round, but persistent tannins. Very approachable, elegant, and enjoyable. A gorgeous Langhe Nebbiolo.
2018 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d'Alba: Grapes are grown exclusively in Serralunga d’Alba, 80% of which is grown in the Boscareto vineyard, and 20% of which is grown in the Lirano vineyard. Vines are 30-70 years old, and grow in soils which contain a high percentage of limestone. Fermentation maceration in stainless steel for one month, followed by two years aging in large botti. Elegant, earthy aromas of tar, leather, wet forest floor, umami, mushrooms, wet leaves, wet earth, along with roses and peonies, and a hint of cigar box. Very beautiful and very elegant. The palate delivers flavors of tart cherry juice, tar, anise, and rose petals alongside smooth tannins and vibrant acidity, with a persistent finish.
2019 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d'Alba: The vineyard sites and winemaking process is the same as the 2018 vintage tasted previously. Aromas of licorice, anise, dried rose petals, figs, fresh fennel, cigar box and wet stone. The palate is filled with fruit forward juicy flavors of tart cherry juice, apple skins, and licorice. Compared to the 2018, the nose is more fruit forward, and the palate more structured. Vibrant acidity, great structure, and great balance will make this a Barolo to enjoy for many years to come. Both are incredible Barolo!
2019 Barolo Ravera di Monforte: Not to be confused with the Ravera vineyard site in Novello, this vineyard site is located in Monforte d’Alba. To help avoid confusion bottles are labeled as “Ravera di Monforte”, whereas wines from the Novello’s Ravera vineyard are labeled simply as “Ravera”. Exclusively made from the Michet clone of Nebbiolo. Some vines in this vineyard date back to 1934. The vineyard is worked 100% by hand as it’s too steep for any sort of mechanical intervention. Production is quite small, just 3,000 bottles per year. The nose is filled with aromas of wild flowers, mint, herbs, licorice, and black tea leaves. The palate delivers fruity and floral flavors, filled with tart cherry juice, as well as hay, black tea, and a bit of fresh cut grass. Fresh acidity, with silky smooth beautifully integrated tannins, especially for a Barolo that is so young, and at the time of tasting hadn’t even been officially released to market yet. Juicy, clean, pure, and direct. A beautiful expression of Barolo and the terroir.
2019 Barolo Boscareto: Made from a selection of the best grapes from the Boscareto vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba, which is located just beneath Giacomo Conterno’s Cascina Francia. Partial whole cluster fermentation, followed by two years aging in large botti. Only released in vintages where conditions are optimal, and is released a few years later than Ferdinando’s other Barolo. This wine is scheduled for release most likely in 2024 or 2025. Incredibly fresh and pure aromas of licorice, crushed cherries, candied red berries, roses, and beeswax. Flavors of licorice, resin, bee pollen, cherries, rose petals, and cherry tree sap. Unbelievable structure, yet still extremely enjoyable and approachable today. This wine is a total show stopper, is stunning now, and will age effortlessly for decades to come. We’re very much looking forward to the release of this magnificent wine!
*Note at the time of tasting the 2019s had not yet been released to market
Thank You
Grazie mille Nicolò and Ferdinando for welcoming us to your estate and sharing your outstanding wines with us. The work that you’re doing to help preserve and enrich our environment and ecosystem is incredible. This is a tasting that we will remember forever. Nicolò, your passion and knowledge of the estate’s wines and wines of Langhe is extraordinary. Thank you both again, we hope to see you very soon. A presto!
Citations:
Barolo and Barbaresco: The King and Queen of Italian Wine by Kerin O’Keefe
https://portovino.com/producers/ferdinando-principiano/
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